Punta del Diablo, Uruguay - Sample

Punta del Diablo is the smaller, free spirited cousin of glitzy Punta del Este. This little town in the rolling dunes of Reserva Santa Teresa is an escape from civilisation. Life here revolves around the tides and surfing world-class waves. Unwind from a day shredding the breakers by stargazing beside a campfire. Inland, the National Park features capybaras and untouched landscapes.

The first thing that strikes the visitor here is the lack of paved roads. The town is a series of ambient wooden shacks tapering down to the crashing Atlantic. Each building is different, and nearly all feature driftwood to add to the castaway atmosphere. Relax and move to the music of the water here in this hippy beach paradise. Easily reachable within a day from Buenos Aires and just hours from Montevideo, riding waves before a beach barbecue is a tonic to the city chaos.

Punta del Diablo attracts a certain set. Those interested in nature and looking for an experience beyond a boozy night out. Come for the waves and dunes, stay for the campfire chats, you may just find yourself extending your stay as I did!

Places to stay

• Compay Hostel - This bohemian hideout, a 5-minute walk from the beach is a great pick. Wooden verandas strung with hammocks overlook a pool and a communal space for bonfires and hostel barbeques. Set on a rise, the hostel’s sea view is truly divine. Inside is a fully equipped kitchen to save you some money and a plentiful free breakfast. Inside, the dorms are fairly spacious and are kept clean.

• Puerto Arriba Hostel - This charming complex of wooden huts is a stone’s throw from the sea and is another fantastic pick. With a bar, a pool and a lavender garden adorned with hammocks, it is hard to leave. The kitchen is somewhat cramped but fully equipped and the free breakfast is generous. Inside, the dorms are clean, if a little tight.

Things to do:

• Surf - Punta del Diablo offers breaks for any ability. The town beach is Playa del Riviero, a crescent of golden sand offering well shaped waves that can reach 3m in high swells. Be warned, the break is fairly far out to sea so prepare for lots of paddling. Surfboard rental is available along this beach. The water is chilly so make sure to wear a wetsuit for prolonged sessions. My pick for beginners is Playa Grande, 20 minutes walk from the town which offers smaller waves and is suitable for swimming and bodyboarding.

• Walk - Simply head West along the town beach. There is scarcely anything between there and Brazil. You will be alone between the heaving Atlantic and rolling walls of sand dunes. The scene looks identical to how it would have been when Europeans first landed on these shores. The waters here are alive with sea creatures – in a two-hour walk I spied penguins and sea lions. It is also possible to see whales! Right Whales migrate past these shores from mid-June to Mid-July and Mid-October to Mid-November.

• Visit Reserva Santa Teresa - The entrance to this national park is some 8.5km from the town, so take a taxi or cycle. If it is your bag, horses can also be rented from the town’s plaza. The main sights include:

• Laguna Negra: a massive expanse of freshwater home to flamingos and capybaras. The main impression one gets from this national park is the emptiness of the interior, it brings you back to an older age of the earth. You can also rent kayaks on the lakeshore.

• Santa Teresa fortress: a castle built in 1782 by the Portuguese to defend their territory against the Spanish. The layout is spectacularly geometrical, and the stonework is perfectly preserved. Peering through arrow slits at empty land around and with the blue ribbon of the Atlantic visible in the distance, the frontier-feel is palpable and unique.

• Botanical garden: Get up close and personal with South America’s mind-boggling wealth of plant life in this delicately curated garden. The greenhouse built in 1939, housing tropical plants and an aquarium is a real joy to visit. This is located right at the entrance of the national park and just minutes from the fortress.

Tips

• If you are crossing from Argentina, you will be surprised at the prices in Uruguay which are not too dissimilar to those of Europe. If you are coming from Argentina or Brazil, bring your own pasta and cooking oil to save money.

• The bus station in Punta del Diablo is a 2.5km walk to town. Be prepared to take a taxi or if you are arriving in the evening when there are none waiting, be ready for a walk into town.

Where to go next?

• Cabo Polonia: fancy off grid living in a sandy paradise?

• Punta del Este: the St Tropez of South America,

• Brazil: Punta del Diablo is just an hour from an overland crossing to this jewel of South America.